Some of the most wonderful places on Earth have names that are as exotic and evocative as they are: Cabo. Ibiza. Rio.
I’ll be the first to admit that “New Braunfels” doesn’t have the same ring to it. (And if you’re wondering, “New Braunfels” translates to “new brown rock,” so there’s a lot lacking here from a marketing perspective.)
However, don’t let the name fool you. New Braunfels — a small city on the outskirts of San Antonio — is a beautiful place to visit, especially if you have a family and love the water.
I was lucky enough to spend a few days there recently, and now I’m an expert on German-Texan architecture, country music, and something called the “Schlitterbahn.”
Water, Water Everywhere
If you love fresh water, New Braunfels is the town for you. There are gobs of the stuff everywhere — cold springs pop up and flow down to the Guadalupe and Comal rivers, majestic Canyon Lake is right nearby, and Schlitterbahn Water Park is one of the town’s major claims to fame.
Given how oppressive the Texas summers can be, it’s no wonder New Braunfels draws in visitors from all over the state (and beyond). As the mercury rises, people flood the city every day, riding inner tubes down rivers or spending all day floating peacefully in Canyon Lake.
It was a bit cold during my visit, and the Schlitterbahn was unfortunately closed. However, just driving by it you can sense the enormity of this thing. It’s a massive 70 acres, making it almost as big as Disneyland (or, to put it in perspective for my Texas readers, it’s the size of 53 football fields).
The park has river rides, pools, chutes, and dozens of waterslides. It’s like something a child would wish for if they ever came across a genie in a lamp — and I have to say, my inner child was quite disappointed that we wouldn’t be able to see it this time around.
Still, just a quick peek from the outside was enough to convince me that Schlitterbahn would be the place to be once that vaunted Texas humidity really kicked into overdrive. Who needs Cabo when you have the Bahnzai Pipeline?
A Town Filled with Folksy, Historic Charm
New Braunfels was established by German settlers in the mid-19th century, and that rustic German charm can still be seen in many of the historic buildings around town.
One of the places I was most excited to visit was the Gruene (pronounced “green”) Historic District. The district is filled with historical buildings dating back to the town’s founding, and you can walk around and explore all the arts and culture that the area has to offer.
Of course, anything that exists in the Lone Star State is ultimately permeated with Texas culture as well, and Gruene is no exception. You can buy cowboy hats and boots here, or stuff yourself with food ranging from German to American to Tex-Mex.
The biggest draw, however, is Gruene Hall, Texas’s oldest dance hall. Just about every major country artist in the past 70 years has played here at some point, and many of the biggest names still pop in when they’re in town.
It’s basically Texas’s answer to the Grand Ole Opry — except the food and parking are better.
A Night at Gruene Hall
Now, you can’t expose me to a music venue with as much history as Gruene Hall and expect me not to buy a ticket. While I’m a fan of country music in general, Texas country is its own genre, and there were quite a few names on the roster I didn’t recognize.
I ultimately bought a ticket for a Cory Morrow concert and then asked some locals what I had just signed up for.
Their response was overwhelming. Apparently, Morrow and his best friend Pat Green are basically Texas royalty, along with Lyle Lovett, Robert Earl Keen, and Jason Boland.
Lovett was the only name I was familiar with, and truth be told, that’s as much for his marriage to Julia Roberts as anything. As a longtime country listener, it was a revelation to discover that an entire world exists almost entirely inside the borders of the Lone Star State — and just for one night, I could pull the curtain back and glance inside.
To say it was like a step back in time would be an understatement. The place is tiny — only about 6,000 square feet — with a tin roof and side flaps. It looks like a stiff wind would blow it over, but the locals have assured me that the winds around here have tried.
Walk inside and you’re greeted by an old pot-bellied stove and a bunch of wood furniture, and the stage is right there, a small clearing just off the dance floor. It’s hard to fathom that stars like Willie Nelson and George Strait have played there, within arm’s reach.
When Morrow took the stage, you’d have thought that Jesus himself —or at least Townes Van Zandt — had walked through the door. While I’d never heard any of his songs before, I immediately found myself caught up in the crowd’s fervor, and I swayed and clapped with the best of them.
We sang about God. We sang about strippers. We sang a lot about whiskey. It was as Texan of an experience as you can have, and I feel honored to have been in attendance that night.
Did I buy a cowboy hat the next day? I sure did. Did I also immediately load up a Spotify playlist with the biggest names in Texas country? You bet yer boots (I also bought boots).
Even the Hotels Feel Like Home
If you’re going to visit a historic place like New Braunfels, staying at a Holiday Inn just won’t do. That’s why I booked a room at the Prince Solms Inn, a small (six-room) lodging that’s absolutely steeped in history.
The hotel was originally called the Comal Hotel when it was built in 1890. After passing through numerous owners, it was eventually renamed after Prince Carl of Solms-Braunfels (who also lent his name to the city, natch).
While the inn may be quaint and historic, that doesn’t mean it hasn’t been updated with the latest amenities. My room was loaded with a king-sized bed, walk-in shower, smart TV, and everything else you’d expect from a modern hotel room.
It all made for a bit of a jarring experience, honestly; when you see the front of the hotel, you feel as if you’re in a period drama, and then you’re immediately whisked back to the present day when you reach the room.
Still, it was incredibly cozy and comfortable, and I’m sure I’ll hold on to my memories of this place much longer than I would if I’d stayed at yet another Marriott.
Life is Good in New Braunfels!
New Braunfels had never been on my “must visit” list, but I have to say, I think it’s wormed its way into my “must see again” plans. As much fun as I had here during December, I feel like you need to experience it during the summer to experience its full glory.
That being said, I was absolutely smitten by the small Texas city. The German influence is present in everything from the food (you haven’t lived if you’ve never had a kolache) to the beer, with a healthy dash of Texan sprinkled on top.
As a live music lover, I’m not sure that central Texas isn’t paradise; with Gruene Hall being just an hour and a half away from Austin, I could see myself getting lost in a new band every night.
So yes, I will be back and will be bringing my bathing suit (and my new hat and boots, of course).
