Agnolotto at Besa
600 Woodward Ave, Detroit; 313-315-3000; besadetroit.com
Besa is an awesome new-ish restaurant deep in downtown Detroit. There's been a regime change in the kitchen since MT reviewed it, but the agnolotto was the old kitchen's best offering. Agnolotto is the singular form of agnolotti, a cousin of ravioli. The plate holds one long agnolotto tube that's covered with emulsified marrow and stuffed with housemade ricotta that's mixed with microthyme, citrus, and cream cheese. The dough is flavored with pastrami spice, which is sweet from the brown sugar, and the emulsified marrow is made with apple vinegar reduction and cream. The agnolotto comes under three small bunches of wild mushrooms, and the entire plate is dusted with pastrami spice. —Tom Perkins
