New branzino at Zao Jun
6608 Telegraph Rd., Bloomfield Twp.; 248-949-9999; zaojunnewasian.com
Zao Jun's new branzino is composed of delicate tabs of raw fish that are adorned with a paper-thin slice of crunchy jalapeño and microgreens. That sits in an intensely flavorful pool of truffle ponzu with shallots, garlic, and brightening yuzu. The recipe is nearly the same as that in the hamachi at Adachi, where Zao Jun chef Lloyd Roberts also runs the show. (Adachi's hamachi made the year-end last year!) Roberts says he decided to switch to branzino at Zao Jun because some Michiganders didn't like the hamachi's fat. —Tom Perkins
