The best things we ate in and around Detroit this year

Dec 25, 2019 at 1:00 am
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click to enlarge Black shells puttenesca. - Tom Perkins
Tom Perkins
Black shells puttenesca.

Black Shell Puttanesca at the Shinola Hotel

1400 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-356-1400; shinolahotel.com

Perhaps the best of a menu full of excellent plates at Shinola's San Morello restaurant is the black shells puttanesca, which arrives with big, sweet pink shrimp and small rings of tender calamari amid a perfectly salty mix of shells, sweet cherry tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, chili, white wine, anchovy, arugula, and bread crumbs with dehydrated olives, capers, and anchovy that provides a textural contrast. It's a masterpiece, even if it's made in the Shinola Hotel. —Tom Perkins