Black Shell Puttanesca at the Shinola Hotel
1400 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-356-1400; shinolahotel.com
Perhaps the best of a menu full of excellent plates at Shinola's San Morello restaurant is the black shells puttanesca, which arrives with big, sweet pink shrimp and small rings of tender calamari amid a perfectly salty mix of shells, sweet cherry tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, chili, white wine, anchovy, arugula, and bread crumbs with dehydrated olives, capers, and anchovy that provides a textural contrast. It's a masterpiece, even if it's made in the Shinola Hotel. —Tom Perkins