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Page 16 of 20
Tom Perkins
Oyster mushrooms.
Oyster mushrooms at Magnet
4842 Grand River Ave., Detroit; 313-656-2640; magnetdetroit.com
These delicately sea-flavored beauties are smoky — which makes sense in a restaurant where everything is wood-fired — in a koji stock. Mushrooms are umami factories anyway, but koji, the traditional Japanese ingredient behind sake and soy sauce, multiplies the effect. The texture is velvet. This dish gives vegetarians — who are already supremely happy at Magnet — even more reason to thumb their noses at meat. —Jane Slaughter
