If you spend a long enough time in a city — any city, even the magical ones I’m lucky enough to visit regularly — then it won’t be long until you start feeling Mother Nature calling out to your spirit.
This has become an established phenomenon for me, and I’ve started planning campouts and other excursions in all my travel plans. Yes, I’ll visit LA, Tokyo, or Paris, but I want to swim with sharks, stare at the Northern Lights, and peek over the rim of a volcano.
All this is to say that when I heard that there’s a place that bills itself as “the Grand Canyon of Texas,” I knew I had to see it for myself. That place is Big Bend National Park, and I was fortunate enough to spend two full days there on my recent trip to Texas. Here’s what I discovered on my latest adventure.
A quick primer on Big Bend National Park
Located in far west Texas, Big Bend is seemingly entirely in another world. The nearest city is hours away, and much of the topography is out of place with its surroundings. To get there, you must drive for hours through the endless, flat desert — and then somehow, as if by magic, a lush, green basin opens up to you. It’s as close as I’ve ever come to crawling through a drab wardrobe and discovering Narnia.
The park is named for a bend in the Rio Grande, which runs through it, and the Cañón de Santa Elena abuts it on the Mexican side of the border. The Chisos Mountains add their own particular punctuation to the park, causing dramatic shifts in elevation as you travel along. There’s a saying in West Texas that the locals love to trot out at any opportunity: “If you don’t like the weather, wait 15 minutes.” That’s true at Big Bend as well, where temperatures are as high as 110° in the summer and weather in the single digits come December. You won’t find another place like it in Texas — or, really, the world.
Camping in Big Bend
There are four designated camping areas inside the park, one of which is reserved for RVs only. Reservations are required for any of them, even though I don’t believe they were truly necessary (this place receives a fraction of the foot traffic the Grand Canyon gets every year). Backcountry camping is allowed at designated sites with a permit, but boondocking (taking RVs into non-designated places) is not. A few sites are reserved for backcountry campers, each with secure food storage options.
If you’re doing a short trip like I was, you’ll likely need to decide whether to explore the Chisos Mountains or the surrounding desert. Campers can stay in the park for up to two weeks, though, giving you plenty of time to see it all if you’re so inclined. If you need some rest from camping, there are many amazing hotels in Texas where you can relax.
Ultimately, I decided to go backcountry camping in the Chisos Mountains. I figured that if I’m not going to be able to do everything in Big Bend, I might as well see it all, right?
Day 1: The mountains win again
There are a variety of hiking trails to choose from, but I elected to take the Pinnacles trail largely because it leads to Emory Peak, the tallest point in the park. On a map, the Chisos Mountains don’t look too intimidating — and I’d never heard of them before planning this trip, so how bad could they really be?
As it turns out, they were much more ready for me than I was for them.
My biggest issue was the climate. It was bitterly cold at times on the trail, especially if you were exposed to the wind, but the climb itself was difficult enough that I often found myself sweating. Knowing that could be a recipe for hypothermia, I took frequent breaks — which didn’t do much for either my time or my frozen bones.
One thing that kept me going was the view. Behind you, Chisos Basin provides spectacular glimpses of the desert floor, while Emory Peak and Casa Grande (another peak in the area) never drift from view. By 3 p.m. it became clear that my initial agenda was far too ambitious. I would not be reaching Emory Peak before nightfall, and I did not want to be out here alone in the dark. Fortunately, it was too cold for bears and rattlesnakes to be out, but a mountain rarely needs help finding ways to kill you.
I chanced upon a campground along the trail and decided this would be a good place to stop for the night.
Setting up my tent was easy, and I also placed the food I had brought in the secure storage box that was provided. While bears weren’t likely to be a threat, I’d heard horror stories about javelinas (large wild boars) ransacking campgrounds in search of food and decided I did not want to fight Pumbaa for my supper. There was also a compostable toilet on-site, which doesn’t sound romantic as I type it, but it was quite a welcome sight at the time.
I found several trees that provided a natural windbreak, and that, combined with my insulated sleeping bag, kept me quite cozy all night. Still, I tried not to leave my tent if I could help it. Instead, I unzipped the flaps to gaze out at one of the most awe-inspiring skies I have ever seen. Big Bend supposedly has the least light pollution of any national park in the lower 48 states, and that night, I saw constellations I never knew existed.
There’s actually a major observatory in nearby Fort Davis, and when I heard that, I was puzzled as to why they’d put such a massive installation out in the middle of nowhere.
Now I know.
You may think you know how dazzling the night sky can be, but trust me, you have no idea until you’ve seen the view from Big Bend.
Day 2: Reaching Emory Peak
I woke up bright and early just as the sun rose (but before it turned the heater on, grumble grumble). I had a quick breakfast and broke camp, determined to make Emory Peak. Getting there involved navigating a seemingly endless number of inclined switchbacks, which quickly became frustrating. It’s hard to find a footing in many of these spots, and it seems to take an inordinate amount of energy just to traverse a few feet at a time.
However, I almost yearned for the switchbacks when I got closer to the peak and realized I’d need to do a little rock climbing. Reaching the highest point means scrambling over loose rocks and boulders, and it’s definitely not for the faint of heart. Once I made it to the top, though, all those frustrations faded away. You can truly see for eternity up there, with endless views stretching across the desert floor, the forested peaks of the Chisos Mountains, and even the sister park across the border.
Now, it’s not for anyone who’s terrified of heights, as you’re pretty much on your own on top of a mountain. I quickly learned not to look directly down. Also, the air is quite thin up here, which could be an issue after the difficulty of ascending. Be sure to sit down, catch your breath, and really drink in your surroundings.
I made it. It was worth it. Now, I just had to make it back.
Tips for visiting Big Bend National Park
While one trip doesn’t qualify me as an expert on the park by any means, I learned quite a few things from my experience (and from chatting with a friendly park ranger) that could be useful for anyone considering hiking Big Bend.
Check the Weather: As already discussed, you can deal with extremes here in Big Bend. If you’re planning to explore the desert, don’t be surprised to find temps in the triple digits. What can trip many hikers up, though, is the fact that the mountains can be so much cooler — many people visit in the summer and don’t pack warm enough clothing.
Bring Plenty of Water: While there are places to get water in the park, don’t rely on them, and pack significantly more water than you think you’ll need (officials recommend a gallon per person per day). That’s true even if you’re planning on sticking to the mountains, as the terrain is arduous, and you’ll likely be sweating the entire time.
Don’t Expect to Buy Stuff When You Get Here: The park is far away from any major cities, and the two closest towns — Terlingua and Marathon — don’t have much in the way of grocery stores. Come fully stocked with everything you need.
Forget Cell Service: Your phone likely won’t work out here, so don’t plan on using it in an emergency. Instead, tell someone where you’re going and when you’ll be back, and bring a compass and a map.
Visit in the Winter: I didn’t do this on purpose, but apparently, I visited during the ideal time. The weather is usually fairly pleasant during the day and bearable at night, and many of the dangerous fauna are hibernating in the winter months. There’s just as much to do in December as in July, and it’s much less risky, too.
Big Bend is officially a must-see
I’m a sucker for any national park, so the fact that I fell in love with Big Bend is hardly a surprise. If all it had to offer were mountain views, lush scenery, and fun recreational activities like kayaking, I’d still heartily recommend it.
But all of those pale in comparison to the view you’ll see at night. If you’ve ever wanted to be truly humbled by the magnitude of the universe, try staring into the night sky from a mountainside in West Texas.
You might not be able to see forever…but I think you might be able to see where forever started.
Visiting the Big Bend National Park – FAQs
What is the best month to visit Big Bend National Park?
The best month to visit Big Bend National Park is either April or October. During these months, the weather is typically mild and pleasant, making it ideal for hiking and other outdoor activities. These months also avoid the extreme heat of summer and the colder temperatures of winter.
What is special about the Big Bend National Park?
Big Bend National Park is unique for its stunning, varied landscapes, from sweeping deserts to rugged mountains. It's a remote gem with fewer crowds, offering a peaceful escape into nature. Known for some of the darkest skies in the U.S., it's also a fantastic place for stargazing.
What is the closest major city to Big Bend National Park?
The closest major city to Big Bend National Park is El Paso, Texas, located about 250 miles away, or roughly a four-hour drive.
Why is it called Big Bend?
Big Bend National Park is named for the prominent bend in the Rio Grande River that marks the park's southern boundary. This large bend in the river gives the park its distinctive shape and name.
