The best things we ate in metro Detroit in 2021

In a roller coaster ride of a year that hit the restaurant industry particularly hard, all of metro Detroit’s restaurateurs deserve praise for adapting, surviving, and still managing to turn out some damn good dishes. After taking over a year off, Metro Times’ restaurant critics began reviewing restaurants in May. Here are some of the best bites we found. 

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‘Birriadillas’ with consomme at Antojitos Southwest During the pandemic’s early stages, Gloria Contreras turned a layoff into an opportunity to pursue a dream: opening a restaurant. She and her family launched a birria-centered operation out of their Southwest Detroit home, and word of her incredible “birriadillas” — or birria quesadillas — spread quickly. The Contreras family now runs a popular food truck, delivering birrilla impressive for its depth and richness. Contreras starts with beef that's browned before simmering for hours in its juices, leaving it super tender while building the fatty base for the hearty quesadillas' big flavor. Garlic, onion, cumin, oregano, and a range of other spices and aromatics stew with the meat, while guajillo, a brightening chile, adds a component that's more tangy and fruity than spicy. That’s wrapped in a shell with a handful of mozzarella cheese, then griddle-fried in the beef’s oil to deepen the package with another interesting flavor layer and create a crunchy counterpoint to all the tender meat. The birria juice is again repurposed as a consommé, which allows the diner to ensure that each bite is awash in the rich, high fat broth. Finish it with diced onion, cilantro, and a squeeze of lime for more flavor and textural depth, and the incredible package is complete. (1975 Sharon St., Detroit; instagram.com/antojitos_southwest) —Tom Perkins Courtesy photo

‘Birriadillas’ with consomme at Antojitos Southwest

During the pandemic’s early stages, Gloria Contreras turned a layoff into an opportunity to pursue a dream: opening a restaurant. She and her family launched a birria-centered operation out of their Southwest Detroit home, and word of her incredible “birriadillas” — or birria quesadillas — spread quickly. The Contreras family now runs a popular food truck, delivering birrilla impressive for its depth and richness. Contreras starts with beef that's browned before simmering for hours in its juices, leaving it super tender while building the fatty base for the hearty quesadillas' big flavor. Garlic, onion, cumin, oregano, and a range of other spices and aromatics stew with the meat, while guajillo, a brightening chile, adds a component that's more tangy and fruity than spicy. That’s wrapped in a shell with a handful of mozzarella cheese, then griddle-fried in the beef’s oil to deepen the package with another interesting flavor layer and create a crunchy counterpoint to all the tender meat. The birria juice is again repurposed as a consommé, which allows the diner to ensure that each bite is awash in the rich, high fat broth. Finish it with diced onion, cilantro, and a squeeze of lime for more flavor and textural depth, and the incredible package is complete. (1975 Sharon St., Detroit; instagram.com/antojitos_southwest)
—Tom Perkins

Courtesy photo

1 of 19
Crudo at Oak and Reel Michelin-starred chef Jared Gadbaw plugged a hole in Detroit’s dining landscape with his high-end, Italian seafood restaurant, and while it’s hard to go wrong anywhere on his menu, the brightest spot was his crudos. The menu changes, but, in May, Gadbaw’s hamachi — sourced from the excellent Motor City Seafood distributor — arrived adorned with caper berries and calabrian pepper oil that deliver pops of acid and heat, while pine nuts keep things texturally interesting and round out the profile. The snapper is thinner, longer, and a bit more delicate than the hamachi, lightly cured in a salt, sugar, and citrus mix with fennel pollen, an olivada that makes its presence known just to the right level, and pistachio. (2921 East Grand Blvd., Detroit; 313-270-9600; oakandreel.com??) —Tom Perkins Photo by Tom Perkins

Crudo at Oak and Reel

Michelin-starred chef Jared Gadbaw plugged a hole in Detroit’s dining landscape with his high-end, Italian seafood restaurant, and while it’s hard to go wrong anywhere on his menu, the brightest spot was his crudos. The menu changes, but, in May, Gadbaw’s hamachi — sourced from the excellent Motor City Seafood distributor — arrived adorned with caper berries and calabrian pepper oil that deliver pops of acid and heat, while pine nuts keep things texturally interesting and round out the profile. The snapper is thinner, longer, and a bit more delicate than the hamachi, lightly cured in a salt, sugar, and citrus mix with fennel pollen, an olivada that makes its presence known just to the right level, and pistachio. (2921 East Grand Blvd., Detroit; 313-270-9600; oakandreel.com??)
—Tom Perkins

Photo by Tom Perkins

2 of 19
Crudo at Oak and Reel Michelin-starred chef Jared Gadbaw plugged a hole in Detroit’s dining landscape with his high-end, Italian seafood restaurant, and while it’s hard to go wrong anywhere on his menu, the brightest spot was his crudos. The menu changes, but, in May, Gadbaw’s hamachi — sourced from the excellent Motor City Seafood distributor — arrived adorned with caper berries and calabrian pepper oil that deliver pops of acid and heat, while pine nuts keep things texturally interesting and round out the profile. The snapper is thinner, longer, and a bit more delicate than the hamachi, lightly cured in a salt, sugar, and citrus mix with fennel pollen, an olivada that makes its presence known just to the right level, and pistachio. (2921 East Grand Blvd., Detroit; 313-270-9600; oakandreel.com??) —Tom Perkins Photo via @oakandreel

Crudo at Oak and Reel

Michelin-starred chef Jared Gadbaw plugged a hole in Detroit’s dining landscape with his high-end, Italian seafood restaurant, and while it’s hard to go wrong anywhere on his menu, the brightest spot was his crudos. The menu changes, but, in May, Gadbaw’s hamachi — sourced from the excellent Motor City Seafood distributor — arrived adorned with caper berries and calabrian pepper oil that deliver pops of acid and heat, while pine nuts keep things texturally interesting and round out the profile. The snapper is thinner, longer, and a bit more delicate than the hamachi, lightly cured in a salt, sugar, and citrus mix with fennel pollen, an olivada that makes its presence known just to the right level, and pistachio. (2921 East Grand Blvd., Detroit; 313-270-9600; oakandreel.com??)
—Tom Perkins

Photo via @oakandreel

3 of 19
Carne y hueso at Barda Chef Javier Bardauil opened his Argentinean steakhouse in the former Magnet spot and has quickly made a name for himself with bangers like the carne y hueso, a plate of hot bone marrow and cold beef tartare. The marrow is as it should be: viscous, rich, and fatty, while the tartare's striploin is mixed with capers, garlic, onion, jalapeño, whole grain mustard seed, lemon, olive oil, plenty of salt, and a smear of horseradish — intense. Even the bread is amped up and meaty as Barda makes tallow that's brushed on the toast. (4842 Grand River Ave., Detroit; 313-952-5182; bardadetroit.com) —Tom Perkins Photo by Emma Sandler

Carne y hueso at Barda

Chef Javier Bardauil opened his Argentinean steakhouse in the former Magnet spot and has quickly made a name for himself with bangers like the carne y hueso, a plate of hot bone marrow and cold beef tartare. The marrow is as it should be: viscous, rich, and fatty, while the tartare's striploin is mixed with capers, garlic, onion, jalapeño, whole grain mustard seed, lemon, olive oil, plenty of salt, and a smear of horseradish — intense. Even the bread is amped up and meaty as Barda makes tallow that's brushed on the toast. (4842 Grand River Ave., Detroit; 313-952-5182; bardadetroit.com)
—Tom Perkins

Photo by Emma Sandler

4 of 19
Carne y hueso at Barda Chef Javier Bardauil opened his Argentinean steakhouse in the former Magnet spot and has quickly made a name for himself with bangers like the carne y hueso, a plate of hot bone marrow and cold beef tartare. The marrow is as it should be: viscous, rich, and fatty, while the tartare's striploin is mixed with capers, garlic, onion, jalapeño, whole grain mustard seed, lemon, olive oil, plenty of salt, and a smear of horseradish — intense. Even the bread is amped up and meaty as Barda makes tallow that's brushed on the toast. (4842 Grand River Ave., Detroit; 313-952-5182; bardadetroit.com) —Tom Perkins Photo via Prince Concepts

Carne y hueso at Barda

Chef Javier Bardauil opened his Argentinean steakhouse in the former Magnet spot and has quickly made a name for himself with bangers like the carne y hueso, a plate of hot bone marrow and cold beef tartare. The marrow is as it should be: viscous, rich, and fatty, while the tartare's striploin is mixed with capers, garlic, onion, jalapeño, whole grain mustard seed, lemon, olive oil, plenty of salt, and a smear of horseradish — intense. Even the bread is amped up and meaty as Barda makes tallow that's brushed on the toast. (4842 Grand River Ave., Detroit; 313-952-5182; bardadetroit.com)
—Tom Perkins

Photo via Prince Concepts

5 of 19
Ful mudammas at Great Commoner The Great Commoner is a collaboration between French pastry chef Matt Knio and fast casual chef/purveyor Zane Makky. Among their greatest hits is the ful mudammas, a standard Middle Eastern breakfast that's brighter here than most versions that I’ve had at other restaurants. The stew-like dish arrives with a mix of fava beans and chickpeas in a garlicky broth of lemon juice and olive oil. It's coated with minced mint and parsley, then topped with a small mound of sweet cherry tomato and chopped radish. Knio's excellent sourdough is utilized as the perfect tool for soaking and scooping the mix. The package is enhanced with acidic punches from a creamy, pea green version of shatta, a Middle Eastern hot sauce that Great Commoner makes with dehydrated jalapeños blended up with oil, red wine vinegar, or lemon juice. My only previous experience with shatta was a looser, minced version in Hamtramck's Yemeni-American sandwich shops, and there's no arguing with Makky's take. (22001 Michigan Ave., Dearborn; 313-403-1200; greatcommoner.com) —Tom Perkins Photo by Tom Perkins

Ful mudammas at Great Commoner

The Great Commoner is a collaboration between French pastry chef Matt Knio and fast casual chef/purveyor Zane Makky. Among their greatest hits is the ful mudammas, a standard Middle Eastern breakfast that's brighter here than most versions that I’ve had at other restaurants. The stew-like dish arrives with a mix of fava beans and chickpeas in a garlicky broth of lemon juice and olive oil. It's coated with minced mint and parsley, then topped with a small mound of sweet cherry tomato and chopped radish. Knio's excellent sourdough is utilized as the perfect tool for soaking and scooping the mix. The package is enhanced with acidic punches from a creamy, pea green version of shatta, a Middle Eastern hot sauce that Great Commoner makes with dehydrated jalapeños blended up with oil, red wine vinegar, or lemon juice. My only previous experience with shatta was a looser, minced version in Hamtramck's Yemeni-American sandwich shops, and there's no arguing with Makky's take. (22001 Michigan Ave., Dearborn; 313-403-1200; greatcommoner.com)
—Tom Perkins

Photo by Tom Perkins

6 of 19
Ful mudammas at Great Commoner The Great Commoner is a collaboration between French pastry chef Matt Knio and fast casual chef/purveyor Zane Makky. Among their greatest hits is the ful mudammas, a standard Middle Eastern breakfast that's brighter here than most versions that I’ve had at other restaurants. The stew-like dish arrives with a mix of fava beans and chickpeas in a garlicky broth of lemon juice and olive oil. It's coated with minced mint and parsley, then topped with a small mound of sweet cherry tomato and chopped radish. Knio's excellent sourdough is utilized as the perfect tool for soaking and scooping the mix. The package is enhanced with acidic punches from a creamy, pea green version of shatta, a Middle Eastern hot sauce that Great Commoner makes with dehydrated jalapeños blended up with oil, red wine vinegar, or lemon juice. My only previous experience with shatta was a looser, minced version in Hamtramck's Yemeni-American sandwich shops, and there's no arguing with Makky's take. (22001 Michigan Ave., Dearborn; 313-403-1200; greatcommoner.com) —Tom Perkins Photo via Great Commoner/Facebook

Ful mudammas at Great Commoner

The Great Commoner is a collaboration between French pastry chef Matt Knio and fast casual chef/purveyor Zane Makky. Among their greatest hits is the ful mudammas, a standard Middle Eastern breakfast that's brighter here than most versions that I’ve had at other restaurants. The stew-like dish arrives with a mix of fava beans and chickpeas in a garlicky broth of lemon juice and olive oil. It's coated with minced mint and parsley, then topped with a small mound of sweet cherry tomato and chopped radish. Knio's excellent sourdough is utilized as the perfect tool for soaking and scooping the mix. The package is enhanced with acidic punches from a creamy, pea green version of shatta, a Middle Eastern hot sauce that Great Commoner makes with dehydrated jalapeños blended up with oil, red wine vinegar, or lemon juice. My only previous experience with shatta was a looser, minced version in Hamtramck's Yemeni-American sandwich shops, and there's no arguing with Makky's take. (22001 Michigan Ave., Dearborn; 313-403-1200; greatcommoner.com)
—Tom Perkins

Photo via Great Commoner/Facebook

7 of 19
Rib tips at BBQ Central The fact that Detroit isn’t nationally known for its barbecue pits is a crime, and the dish the city does best is the rib tip. The humble rib tip is what it sounds like — the tip of the rib — that’s whacked from the bone with a big cleaver. The rich, moist, flavorful nubs at BBQ Central are some of the city’s best. The meat is entwined with a bit of cartilage, and getting at it requires a little more effort — tearing at tips with your teeth is carnal but there's a payoff when the dish is done right, as it is at BBQ Central. Owner-chef Denita Ramsey perfects her tips by serving them in a pool of Central's excellent sweet and savory sauce. Though they’re made with pork, Ramsey offers beef dishes for health and religious reasons, and the concept seems to be working out well. Her small carryout shop at Seven Mile and West Outer Drive is regularly packed with customers, and her most recent location at McNichols and Southfield also remains busy. (12729 W. Seven Mile Rd., Detroit; 313-397-7523; bbqcentraldet.com) —Tom Perkins Photo by Tom Perkins

Rib tips at BBQ Central

The fact that Detroit isn’t nationally known for its barbecue pits is a crime, and the dish the city does best is the rib tip. The humble rib tip is what it sounds like — the tip of the rib — that’s whacked from the bone with a big cleaver. The rich, moist, flavorful nubs at BBQ Central are some of the city’s best. The meat is entwined with a bit of cartilage, and getting at it requires a little more effort — tearing at tips with your teeth is carnal but there's a payoff when the dish is done right, as it is at BBQ Central. Owner-chef Denita Ramsey perfects her tips by serving them in a pool of Central's excellent sweet and savory sauce. Though they’re made with pork, Ramsey offers beef dishes for health and religious reasons, and the concept seems to be working out well. Her small carryout shop at Seven Mile and West Outer Drive is regularly packed with customers, and her most recent location at McNichols and Southfield also remains busy. (12729 W. Seven Mile Rd., Detroit; 313-397-7523; bbqcentraldet.com)
—Tom Perkins

Photo by Tom Perkins

8 of 19
Rib tips at BBQ Central The fact that Detroit isn’t nationally known for its barbecue pits is a crime, and the dish the city does best is the rib tip. The humble rib tip is what it sounds like — the tip of the rib — that’s whacked from the bone with a big cleaver. The rich, moist, flavorful nubs at BBQ Central are some of the city’s best. The meat is entwined with a bit of cartilage, and getting at it requires a little more effort — tearing at tips with your teeth is carnal but there's a payoff when the dish is done right, as it is at BBQ Central. Owner-chef Denita Ramsey perfects her tips by serving them in a pool of Central's excellent sweet and savory sauce. Though they’re made with pork, Ramsey offers beef dishes for health and religious reasons, and the concept seems to be working out well. Her small carryout shop at Seven Mile and West Outer Drive is regularly packed with customers, and her most recent location at McNichols and Southfield also remains busy. (12729 W. Seven Mile Rd., Detroit; 313-397-7523; bbqcentraldet.com) —Tom Perkins Photo via @bbq_central_detroit

Rib tips at BBQ Central

The fact that Detroit isn’t nationally known for its barbecue pits is a crime, and the dish the city does best is the rib tip. The humble rib tip is what it sounds like — the tip of the rib — that’s whacked from the bone with a big cleaver. The rich, moist, flavorful nubs at BBQ Central are some of the city’s best. The meat is entwined with a bit of cartilage, and getting at it requires a little more effort — tearing at tips with your teeth is carnal but there's a payoff when the dish is done right, as it is at BBQ Central. Owner-chef Denita Ramsey perfects her tips by serving them in a pool of Central's excellent sweet and savory sauce. Though they’re made with pork, Ramsey offers beef dishes for health and religious reasons, and the concept seems to be working out well. Her small carryout shop at Seven Mile and West Outer Drive is regularly packed with customers, and her most recent location at McNichols and Southfield also remains busy. (12729 W. Seven Mile Rd., Detroit; 313-397-7523; bbqcentraldet.com)
—Tom Perkins

Photo via @bbq_central_detroit

9 of 19
Harhoura at AlTayeb Though AlTayeb is known for breakfast, this lunch dish was my favorite. It's a big pile of shredded beef, peppers and slightly sweet onions, enough for two. It manages to start off mellow, with a cozy mouth-feel because of the high fat content, and finish with a gratifying after-glow. Tahini on the side serves as a bland counterpoint, if you can only take so much goodness at a time. (15010 W. Warren Ave., Suite 111, Dearborn; 313-908-9527; altayebrestaurant.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo by Ali Elreichouni/Google Maps

Harhoura at AlTayeb

Though AlTayeb is known for breakfast, this lunch dish was my favorite. It's a big pile of shredded beef, peppers and slightly sweet onions, enough for two. It manages to start off mellow, with a cozy mouth-feel because of the high fat content, and finish with a gratifying after-glow. Tahini on the side serves as a bland counterpoint, if you can only take so much goodness at a time. (15010 W. Warren Ave., Suite 111, Dearborn; 313-908-9527; altayebrestaurant.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo by Ali Elreichouni/Google Maps

10 of 19
Harhoura at AlTayeb Though AlTayeb is known for breakfast, this lunch dish was my favorite. It's a big pile of shredded beef, peppers and slightly sweet onions, enough for two. It manages to start off mellow, with a cozy mouth-feel because of the high fat content, and finish with a gratifying after-glow. Tahini on the side serves as a bland counterpoint, if you can only take so much goodness at a time. (15010 W. Warren Ave., Suite 111, Dearborn; 313-908-9527; altayebrestaurant.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo via Google Maps

Harhoura at AlTayeb

Though AlTayeb is known for breakfast, this lunch dish was my favorite. It's a big pile of shredded beef, peppers and slightly sweet onions, enough for two. It manages to start off mellow, with a cozy mouth-feel because of the high fat content, and finish with a gratifying after-glow. Tahini on the side serves as a bland counterpoint, if you can only take so much goodness at a time. (15010 W. Warren Ave., Suite 111, Dearborn; 313-908-9527; altayebrestaurant.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo via Google Maps

11 of 19
Chai tea latte at Congregation This welcoming restaurant makes its own chai in house, low in sugar, no preservatives, spiced just right. Four ounces of that goes into a bowl-sized cup with an ounce of cayenne-cinnamon simple syrup, and that's topped with steamed milk: whole, skim, soy, almond or oat. The result is spicy the way Mexican hot chocolate is spicy—that is, you taste the spices themselves, not just the heat. And it's creamy, and it's a little sweet. There is no better winter drink. (9321 Rosa Parks Blvd., Detroit; 313-307-5518; thecongregationdetroit.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo via @thecongregationdetroit

Chai tea latte at Congregation

This welcoming restaurant makes its own chai in house, low in sugar, no preservatives, spiced just right. Four ounces of that goes into a bowl-sized cup with an ounce of cayenne-cinnamon simple syrup, and that's topped with steamed milk: whole, skim, soy, almond or oat. The result is spicy the way Mexican hot chocolate is spicy—that is, you taste the spices themselves, not just the heat. And it's creamy, and it's a little sweet. There is no better winter drink. (9321 Rosa Parks Blvd., Detroit; 313-307-5518; thecongregationdetroit.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo via @thecongregationdetroit

12 of 19
Chai tea latte at Congregation This welcoming restaurant makes its own chai in house, low in sugar, no preservatives, spiced just right. Four ounces of that goes into a bowl-sized cup with an ounce of cayenne-cinnamon simple syrup, and that's topped with steamed milk: whole, skim, soy, almond or oat. The result is spicy the way Mexican hot chocolate is spicy—that is, you taste the spices themselves, not just the heat. And it's creamy, and it's a little sweet. There is no better winter drink. (9321 Rosa Parks Blvd., Detroit; 313-307-5518; thecongregationdetroit.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo via @thecongregationdetroit

Chai tea latte at Congregation

This welcoming restaurant makes its own chai in house, low in sugar, no preservatives, spiced just right. Four ounces of that goes into a bowl-sized cup with an ounce of cayenne-cinnamon simple syrup, and that's topped with steamed milk: whole, skim, soy, almond or oat. The result is spicy the way Mexican hot chocolate is spicy—that is, you taste the spices themselves, not just the heat. And it's creamy, and it's a little sweet. There is no better winter drink. (9321 Rosa Parks Blvd., Detroit; 313-307-5518; thecongregationdetroit.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo via @thecongregationdetroit

13 of 19
Omakase at Sozai Omakase will by definition be different every time, of course, but it will always be stellar at Sozai, where chef Hajime Sato is intent on using sustainable and local ingredients. He uses purveyors who reveal who caught each fish, where and when, to avoid wrecking fisheries. The progression that sent me over the moon included East Coast scallops with blanched asparagus, a poke of mackerel with seaweed and macadamias, a nigiri sampler of scallops, albacore and salmon, a salmon roll, halibut cheeks, and an eggy cheesecake over roasted-green-tea Anglaise. (449 W. 14 Mile Rd., Clawson; 248-677-3232; sozairestaurant.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo by Se7enfifteen

Omakase at Sozai

Omakase will by definition be different every time, of course, but it will always be stellar at Sozai, where chef Hajime Sato is intent on using sustainable and local ingredients. He uses purveyors who reveal who caught each fish, where and when, to avoid wrecking fisheries. The progression that sent me over the moon included East Coast scallops with blanched asparagus, a poke of mackerel with seaweed and macadamias, a nigiri sampler of scallops, albacore and salmon, a salmon roll, halibut cheeks, and an eggy cheesecake over roasted-green-tea Anglaise. (449 W. 14 Mile Rd., Clawson; 248-677-3232; sozairestaurant.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo by Se7enfifteen

14 of 19
Omakase at Sozai Omakase will by definition be different every time, of course, but it will always be stellar at Sozai, where chef Hajime Sato is intent on using sustainable and local ingredients. He uses purveyors who reveal who caught each fish, where and when, to avoid wrecking fisheries. The progression that sent me over the moon included East Coast scallops with blanched asparagus, a poke of mackerel with seaweed and macadamias, a nigiri sampler of scallops, albacore and salmon, a salmon roll, halibut cheeks, and an eggy cheesecake over roasted-green-tea Anglaise. (449 W. 14 Mile Rd., Clawson; 248-677-3232; sozairestaurant.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo via Google Maps

Omakase at Sozai

Omakase will by definition be different every time, of course, but it will always be stellar at Sozai, where chef Hajime Sato is intent on using sustainable and local ingredients. He uses purveyors who reveal who caught each fish, where and when, to avoid wrecking fisheries. The progression that sent me over the moon included East Coast scallops with blanched asparagus, a poke of mackerel with seaweed and macadamias, a nigiri sampler of scallops, albacore and salmon, a salmon roll, halibut cheeks, and an eggy cheesecake over roasted-green-tea Anglaise. (449 W. 14 Mile Rd., Clawson; 248-677-3232; sozairestaurant.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo via Google Maps

15 of 19
Scallops crudo at Bunny Bunny There is nothing richer than a raw scallops, and yet Chef Justin Tootla has found a way to improve them, with a dish he calls “simple,” but look at the work: Potatoes are hand-cut into thin noodle-like threads, soaked in water to remove starch, fried in sesame oil with chilis, then chilled for a Chinese-style salad. Puréed plums are treated with vinegar and hot mustard and fermented for a couple of days. And then those two items are served with fresh slices of plum alongside Nantucket scallops. Bunny Bunny's scallop dishes change depending what's in season; this is the kind of care that goes into them. (1454 Gratiot Ave., Detroit; 313-974-6122; bunnybunnydetroit.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo by Tom Perkins

Scallops crudo at Bunny Bunny

There is nothing richer than a raw scallops, and yet Chef Justin Tootla has found a way to improve them, with a dish he calls “simple,” but look at the work: Potatoes are hand-cut into thin noodle-like threads, soaked in water to remove starch, fried in sesame oil with chilis, then chilled for a Chinese-style salad. Puréed plums are treated with vinegar and hot mustard and fermented for a couple of days. And then those two items are served with fresh slices of plum alongside Nantucket scallops. Bunny Bunny's scallop dishes change depending what's in season; this is the kind of care that goes into them. (1454 Gratiot Ave., Detroit; 313-974-6122; bunnybunnydetroit.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo by Tom Perkins

16 of 19
Scallops crudo at Bunny Bunny There is nothing richer than a raw scallops, and yet Chef Justin Tootla has found a way to improve them, with a dish he calls “simple,” but look at the work: Potatoes are hand-cut into thin noodle-like threads, soaked in water to remove starch, fried in sesame oil with chilis, then chilled for a Chinese-style salad. Puréed plums are treated with vinegar and hot mustard and fermented for a couple of days. And then those two items are served with fresh slices of plum alongside Nantucket scallops. Bunny Bunny's scallop dishes change depending what's in season; this is the kind of care that goes into them. (1454 Gratiot Ave., Detroit; 313-974-6122; bunnybunnydetroit.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo via Google Maps

Scallops crudo at Bunny Bunny

There is nothing richer than a raw scallops, and yet Chef Justin Tootla has found a way to improve them, with a dish he calls “simple,” but look at the work: Potatoes are hand-cut into thin noodle-like threads, soaked in water to remove starch, fried in sesame oil with chilis, then chilled for a Chinese-style salad. Puréed plums are treated with vinegar and hot mustard and fermented for a couple of days. And then those two items are served with fresh slices of plum alongside Nantucket scallops. Bunny Bunny's scallop dishes change depending what's in season; this is the kind of care that goes into them. (1454 Gratiot Ave., Detroit; 313-974-6122; bunnybunnydetroit.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo via Google Maps

17 of 19
Baba at Supergeil Better than anyone else's baba ghanouj, Chef Brendan McCall makes it by roasting Asian eggplant (less bitter) till it's blackened. The smoky innards are joined with lemon juice, olive oil, confit garlic, yogurt, sour cream, and a bit of tahini. A pickled garnish takes the edge off the umami, and the flatbread you use for scooping is made fluffy and naan-like by adding lots of honey to pizza flour, and stretching the dough to order. This is not your usual forgettable pita; nor is it sweet, just fluffy and soft. Season with za'atar, olive oil and plenty of fresh oregano, and there's no real reason to get past the appetizer course. (2442 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-462-4133; supergeildetroit.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo by Tom Perkins

Baba at Supergeil

Better than anyone else's baba ghanouj, Chef Brendan McCall makes it by roasting Asian eggplant (less bitter) till it's blackened. The smoky innards are joined with lemon juice, olive oil, confit garlic, yogurt, sour cream, and a bit of tahini. A pickled garnish takes the edge off the umami, and the flatbread you use for scooping is made fluffy and naan-like by adding lots of honey to pizza flour, and stretching the dough to order. This is not your usual forgettable pita; nor is it sweet, just fluffy and soft. Season with za'atar, olive oil and plenty of fresh oregano, and there's no real reason to get past the appetizer course. (2442 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-462-4133; supergeildetroit.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo by Tom Perkins

18 of 19
Baba at Supergeil Better than anyone else's baba ghanouj, Chef Brendan McCall makes it by roasting Asian eggplant (less bitter) till it's blackened. The smoky innards are joined with lemon juice, olive oil, confit garlic, yogurt, sour cream, and a bit of tahini. A pickled garnish takes the edge off the umami, and the flatbread you use for scooping is made fluffy and naan-like by adding lots of honey to pizza flour, and stretching the dough to order. This is not your usual forgettable pita; nor is it sweet, just fluffy and soft. Season with za'atar, olive oil and plenty of fresh oregano, and there's no real reason to get past the appetizer course. (2442 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-462-4133; supergeildetroit.com) —Jane Slaughter Photo via @supergeildetroit

Baba at Supergeil

Better than anyone else's baba ghanouj, Chef Brendan McCall makes it by roasting Asian eggplant (less bitter) till it's blackened. The smoky innards are joined with lemon juice, olive oil, confit garlic, yogurt, sour cream, and a bit of tahini. A pickled garnish takes the edge off the umami, and the flatbread you use for scooping is made fluffy and naan-like by adding lots of honey to pizza flour, and stretching the dough to order. This is not your usual forgettable pita; nor is it sweet, just fluffy and soft. Season with za'atar, olive oil and plenty of fresh oregano, and there's no real reason to get past the appetizer course. (2442 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-462-4133; supergeildetroit.com)
—Jane Slaughter

Photo via @supergeildetroit

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