The name is clever and the idea is intriguing — Korean meets Mexican — but Nuevo Seoul lacks where it’s most important: the appeal of the food. It’s not bad, but you might not be inviting friends.
The menu is basically Mexican dishes — tacos, burritos, quesadillas — with Korean meats, plus Korean-style fried chicken. Cocktails use both soju, the Korean rice liquor, and tequila or mezcal (not in the same drink), and there are complicated concoctions like gin-vermouth-cynar-tea-lime-yogurt.
In Nuevo Seoul’s favor is that its prices are reasonable, for big portions. (Sometimes I write as if my readers’ main concern was filling their bellies till the next meal, though they’re not sure where it’s coming from.) It’s informal, with servers in cut-offs or jeans. Décor includes rows of colorful skulls, Day of the Dead-style. The crowd is diverse. A TV shows Korean scenes. A sign at the host desk warns that 18% is added to each bill.
I found most dishes unsubtle and generic. Birria, for example, is a shredded, marinated beef dish associated with Jalisco, the state that’s home to a majority of Detroit’s Mexican immigrants. I ordered birria ramen, advertised as “slow cooked Korean beef short rib.” It was served in a tall plastic container like you’d buy yogurt in, with a little plastic spoon. Fine for carry-out, but to try to eat from at your table? Broth, meat, and noodles were all one-note, sort of a universal “spicy meat.”
A burrito was packed with black beans, rice, sour cream, cheese, corn, cilantro, pico de gallo, and guacamole — a very American burrito — but it was still lackluster.
Tacos were more interesting, with seven Korean protein choices. I ordered kalbi beef (flank steak), bulgogi (marinated grilled ribeye or sirloin), and gochujang chicken. Gojuchang is a paste of fermented soybeans and chile peppers, and its reputation is complexity, with heat, umami, and sugar, plus the earthy tang that comes from fermentation. The tacos were correctly served with double corn tortillas and respectively tasted a little sweet, a little savory, and a little hot. Salsa roja and salsa verde served on the side could add some personality; I didn’t discern any onion or cilantro.
Wings nubbly with flecks of sesame seed were not bad, but an enormous fried chicken sandwich with cucumber kimchi was a disaster: unwieldy, lots of crust with none of the luscious vibes we want from a deep fryer, little or no chicken flavor. Fries on the side were numerous and standard. You can also get kimchi fries with spicy mayo and cotija cheese, for another attempt at cross-cultural coordination.
A side order of guacamole was limey and just OK, uncharacteristically small.
I did not get adventurous with my drink orders, though the list includes some titillating ingredients like liqueurs of melon and passionfruit.
A piña colada slushie (origin: Puerto Rico) was heavy on the coconut, served with a wide-mouth straw. My friend said her margarita showed a good balance between sour and sweet. A spiritless coconut paloma was refreshing on a hot night, the cloyingness of the coconut alleviated by the two citruses (grapefruit and lime) and by the bubbles of the Mineragua sparkling water. Another slushie option will keep you awake all night, with tequila, Kahlua, cold brew concentrate, coffee syrup, and Abuelita, the hot chocolate brand — though it is no longer offered, as the restaurant changes its menu seasonally.
You can also order from a rotating selection of fruit drinks — aguas frescas — like strawberry-watermelon.
As often happens, Nuevo Seoul did better on desserts (or my sweet tooth is talking). A tres leches cake was a steal at $7, though, again, served as if for take-out in an aluminum box. It was solid and served with a fourth leche, whipped cream, on top. Churros, if you eat them warm, are almost always a delight, and these did not disappoint. Skip the chocolate ganache on the side, though.
I was somewhat startled that a sign urged customers to win a free helping of churro chips — tortilla chips prepared churro-style — by leaving a five-star review.
After this article was published, Nuevo Seoul’s general manager reached out to Metro Times via email to defend its online reviews, writing that “we consistently receive positive reviews on platforms like Google and Yelp from guests who genuinely enjoy our service, food, and drinks. We work hard to deliver an experience that is both enjoyable and memorable.”
The manager also disputed the characterization of its dishes as “generic.” “Our proteins, such as bulgogi and kalbi, are marinated and prepared with great care, reflecting a true fusion of Korean and Mexican cuisine,” the manager says. “These are not merely ‘generic’ offerings as the review suggests.”
The manager also defended its use of plasticware and aluminum. “Additionally, the casual vibe of Nuevo Seoul is intentional,” the manager adds. “We aim to create a laid-back, fun, and approachable atmosphere for all of our guests. It’s a part of our charm, not a shortcoming.”
Executive chef Tyler Haloostozk adds, “Here at Nuevo Seoul, we do our best to bring something creative, fast, and flavorful to the downtown area — something you might not be able to get anywhere else nearby and just really just have good times with good friends and family.”
Nuevo Seoul is open every day starting at noon.
Location Details
Editor’s note: A previous version of this article inaccurately described the kalbi beef as marinated ribs; the restaurant says it is flank steak. The previous version of the article also erroneously described a drink as containing artichoke flavors. The restaurant’s hours of operation have also been updated.
