Photos courtesy Kitchen Ramarj
Ameneh Marhaba of Kitchen Ramarj.
It has taken some time, but the flavors of Africa and the diaspora are finally being felt in the pop-up scene in Detroit. First it was African-born Tunde Wey, who took his Nigerian pop-up on the road. More recently, it was Christian Noel doing a series of Haitian-themed pop-ups called N’ap Boulé. Now it’s 22-year-old Ameneh Marhaba’s Kitchen Ramarj pop-up, featuring the flavors of Liberia.
Marhaba has a colorful, international history. Her mother is Liberian and her father is Lebanese. She lived in Lebanon as a child and then in Liberia until she was a teenager, which instilled in her a native's knowledge of both cultures.
Of course, the two cuisines couldn’t be more different. Lebanese chefs can be spice averse, and Liberian food never met a habanero it didn't like. How does Marhaba approach this kind of balancing act? She tells how, at a recent pop-up, she made chicken wings seasoned as in Liberia, with a spicy peanut butter seasoning. “But in Lebanon, you’d usually accompany wings with a hummus dipping sauce on the side and a little bit of garlic, among other things. So when I did the wings, we put the wings on top of a bed of hummus.”
Also, Marhaba gives diners a choice of how high they’d like to turn up the heat. Instead of infusing the dish with chile heat, she offered a spicy habanero sauce on side. Marhaba sounds a little surprised that “some people kept requesting hot sauce.” It’s a little trouble to make the spicy sauce on the side, but it’s worth it if diners timid about spice are grateful.
She says her recent pop-ups were well-received, and that diners unfamiliar with African food made a point of seeking her out and complimenting her personally. “I was wondering if people would like it,” Marhaba says. “But a lot of people who hadn’t tried it came specifically just to have that experience.”
This week, you can join the crowds singing her praises. This weekend, on the final pop-up at Corktown’s Saint Cece’s, she’ll serve a menu of Lebanese hummus topped with seasoned ground beef spicy roasted beef topped with diced plantains and habanero paste, a spicy Liberian kidney bean stew served over jasmine white rice, house-made Liberian banana-and-rice bread with a shot of ginger beer on the side, palm butter stew, and more.
The meal takes place The meal is cash and a la carte. See the Kitchen Ramarj Facebook page for more information.
Kitchen Ramarj will start serving at 5 p.m. Sturday, Nov. 12, at Saint Cece’s Food & Spirits, 1426 Bagley St., Detroit; 313- 962-2121.
Photos courtesy Kitchen Ramarj
click to enlarge
Photos courtesy Kitchen Ramarj
click to enlarge
Photos courtesy Kitchen Ramarj
Photos courtesy Kitchen Ramarj
click to enlarge
Photos courtesy Kitchen Ramarj
click to enlarge
Photos courtesy Kitchen Ramarj