Warm receptions

Creating menus that are short in length but broad in appeal is an elusive skill — though the perfect café menu arguably strikes exactly that balance. Striving for that outcome is Torino Espresso + Bar, one of Ferndale's newest establishments.

Situated on Nine Mile Road just east of Woodward Avenue, arguably a perfect spot to join Ferndale's significant bar scene, Torino is clearly aiming to be more than just another café.

Inside, the walls are lined with colorful, contemporary art; dim lighting is provided by retro-styled, low-wattage bulbs; and contrasting wood tones accented by chrome comprise the majority of counters, chairs and tabletops. A single television, generally dedicated to Detroit sports, is mounted above the bar. Clean but casual, the decor seems quite suitable for both a trendy lunch stop and a vibrant nightspot.

You'll almost assuredly be greeted by polite, engaging folks: The staff is fun and chatty, and the owner, Samer Abdallah, is often tending bar or talking with customers, a refreshing change from the impersonal anonymity one feels in so many restaurants. Sit at the bar most nights and you'll have the pleasure of talking with Nicole Matos, a bartender, conversationalist and managerial figure who seems to know half the customers and lends palpable warmth to Torino.

Their focused food offerings have a distinctly Mediterranean influence. Among the starters are a small bruschetta plate ($10), a serving of hummus ($8), and a set of melon and prosciutto skewers ($10). The skewers are well-prepared with a nice balance of flavors: mildly bitter microgreens, salty ham and sweet seasonal melon. Atypically arranged with the meat wrapped around at least three pieces of melon on a single stick, they may require a fork to avoid an embarrassing mishap, but they're a tasty way to begin a meal.

Consider one of the salads ranging from the expected, such as a classic Caprese with tomatoes and mozzarella ($10, $13 with prosciutto), to the unexpected, such as a Caesar with spicy cashews ($10, $13 with chicken). Torino aims to use local vegetables and meats, a principle illustrated in the apple and manchego salad ($10), which utilizes Royal Oak spinach along with apples, cheese and walnuts.

One of Torino's selling points is a self-proclaimed European style of dining, ostensibly synonymous with café culture. A centerpiece of that approach is a series of charcuterie platters, each expertly arranged. These range in size from an $18 half-plate with two meats and two cheeses to a sizable chef's platter ($42) with several meats and cheeses as well as fruits and veggies. Each arrives with artichokes, olives and greens as well as accompaniments that include tapenade and honeycomb.

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