Serious Pull

Barbecue has nearly universal appeal for meat lovers. From the first tender bite to the last lick of one's own fingers, all washed down with a frosty pint, it leaves every comfort food craving satisfied. Part brewpub and part barbecue joint, Blue Tractor brings exactly that experience to downtown Ann Arbor.

Looking the part is important for any restaurant, and Blue Tractor does it well. Decorated in wood and rough metalwork, it exudes the feel of a big, rustic barn, ideally suited for serving up barbecue to 100 close friends. A long bar stretches across one wall, the establishment's house-brewed beers listed next to its respectable bourbon selection.

Unsurprisingly, it appears most folks begin with beer. None stands out as a "must try," and, as with plenty of brewpubs, the idea is more appealing than the final product. That said, their Bumper Crop IPA isn't burdened with too much hoppiness and will wash down a plate of ribs pretty damn well.

Sampler flights are available for their standard taps, which tend to include the IPA, stout, bock, pilsner and wheat beer. Visitors can also snag one of their seasonal pints, which recently have included a summer wheat and a vanilla java stout; the latter is roasty, balanced, and not as big and sweet as the name implies.

When it comes time to order, you'll have a selection of pub grub appetizers, a few of which adhere closely to the barbecue theme, chile cheddar corn muffins, pork quesadillas and chipotle buffalo wings among them. The wings ($8.95) are fried and quite crispy. They carry little heat and verge on being sweet, which is nicely offset by chunks of blue cheese.

Fried pickles seem to be making a bit of a comeback (though it'd be fair to ask if they were ever popular enough to call it a comeback), and Blue Tractor offers a heaping basket, served with rich, tangy tomato ranch dressing, for around $8. They don't stay crisp long, but every component is a bit tart and a bit fatty, which is a hard combination to beat.

Largely the same for lunch and dinner, aside from pricing changes, the menu carries such typical brewpub fare as sandwiches and salads, but entrées include catfish, mac and cheese, and lots of barbecue. Choose from spare ribs or baby backs with fries, pulled pork with braised greens and grits, brisket with veggies, and beer-can chicken with baked beans and mashed potatoes.

Paralyzed by indecision? No problem. Blue Tractor offers combo plates ranging from two ($14.95) to all five ($26.95) of the meats. The largest is presented attractively, like a family-style dinner, certainly big enough for two people to share (and perhaps to take some home). Each platter comes with coleslaw, baked beans and grits, and you're offered a choice of several sauces ranging from a pungent vinegar-based sauce to a few more interesting, tomato-based options, including one based on their bock beer.

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