Mani Osteria & Bar builds buzz in Ann Arbor

Ann Arbor has been undergoing something of a renaissance. For its many long-standing independent eateries, plenty of storefronts had been increasingly occupied by chains or places of middling quality. Then a few years ago, something happened: Real coffee shops started opening (again), and restaurants started serving decent cocktails alongside creative preparations of seasonal food.

One of the newer additions to the re-emerging scene is Mani Osteria & Bar, an Italian restaurant embracing the national trends toward comfortable dining and shareable plates.

Somewhat ironically situated across Division from a popular chain bar, Mani is adding energy and buzz to the area between State and Main streets. Previously a rent-to-own furniture store, the location seemed an unlikely place to open a new eatery, but the transformation certainly has been successful.

Inside, the bar and several high tables occupy the front area, and a few stairs lead to the main floor. An open kitchen overlooks everything, and the glow of wood-fired ovens set into the tiled cooking space is visible across the spacious, contemporary dining room.

Meeting the growing demand for better drinks even at casual establishments, Mani offers some creative cocktails. While the drinks are not executed with the perfect precision of some of southeast Michigan's new cocktail bars and restaurants — e.g., some cocktails one would expect to be stirred are shaken, and quantities are eyeballed — the libations are a fine way to start (or end) an evening. Most are thematically on point, featuring ingredients of Italian provenance: Carpano Antica vermouth, prosecco, Campari, and so on.

While our party usually embraces boozier drinks, it was the La Strada, a refreshing combination of prosecco, Aperol and rosemary, that drew the most praise for its perfect balance and straightforward drinkability.

When ordering, one will find a long, thoroughly appetizing list of small, shareable antipasti plates. Try as many as you can: A serving of about a half-dozen crisped artichokes ($9) have a nice, flaky texture and slightly salty flavor. The chicken liver mousse ($12) is topped with pistachios and has an impossibly smooth, consistent texture. And thank your higher power that pork belly has become fashionable, because Mani offers a superb preparation ($10), slow cooked to fork tenderness and then crisped nicely and served atop an apricot marmalade. These are all served in modest portions, but splitting a mix of plates among several people allows everyone to have a few bites.

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