Let's get local

Embracing a return to local farms and seasonal produce, American foodies are justifiably aflutter with talk of locavorism. Beyond the potential environmental advantages, the food often tastes better. Of course, as is often the case in any movement, much of the chatter about organic, natural and local cuisine amounts to just that — chatter. At Grange Kitchen & Bar, however, the chatter is part of a systematic, passionate devotion to producing the best food that the region and season allow.

Located in the heart of downtown Ann Arbor and open to the public for a little more than a year, Grange offers a genuinely different alternative to the stalwarts of Main Street's dining scene. With food sourced from more than a dozen local farms, creameries and orchards — and with details on each available on the menus and website — Chef Brandon Johns' cuisine embodies the increasingly popular locavore mantra.

The restaurant presents a narrow facade to Liberty Street in the space previously occupied by Bella Ciao, which for decades offered guests Italian cuisine in cave-like darkness. So upon entering Grange, one might expect an ill-lit interior that feels cramped. But white and lavender blue walls illuminated by candles and white linens brighten the long dining room. Servers are uniformly dressed in serious earth tones, but even they add to the space's glow with universally pleasant demeanors.

Beyond the main room, patrons may dine outside when Michigan's whimsical clime decides they should, and the upstairs bar offers the entire menu plus a short list of smaller dishes available exclusively to those seeking a quick tipple or two.

Eating seasonally is great; but it makes a reviewer's job difficult. Zucchini and squash cakes are prevalent in early fall, but you're likely to see root vegetables and canned tomatoes come February. But diners can expect a consistently creative, rewarding approach to food.

Serving as a prime example is the "Fried Pig's Head" appetizer with juicy jowl meat neatly breaded, molded and fried into a tidy cube and served with sauce gribiche, essentially a deconstructed mayonnaise using boiled eggs. A salad of arugula, pickled plums, and goat cheese creates a symphony from simplicity. And a plate of gently tart fried green tomatoes makes an ideal foil for fatty bacon and homemade ranch. Appetizers here are easy on the wallet, starting at $4 for fried chickpeas. Nearly all are less than $10, save a charcuterie plate for $15.

Entrées at Grange are hearty fare: One might see an elegant take on fried chicken, a play on surf and turf, or a brown butter-accompanied gnocchi. The pork schnitzel is a juicy — but crunchy — piece of breaded meat smothered in homemade pickled red cabbage. Inspired by a past camping meal, Chef Johns prepares a fun dish called "Fox River Breakfast," which matches whitefish with a duck confit hash and a fried egg. Each entrée shows off Michigan's offerings in an interesting way, but the crispy, delicate skin on seared whitefish plated over a sweet eggplant puree and firm brussels sprouts is elegant and delicious. With one exception from a recent menu, nothing is more than $28.

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