Desserts are showcased on a tiered cart. Each of those we tried looked far better than it tasted, perfectly fine but uninteresting in the way wedding cake can be. Diners won't lack for choices, however: From coconut cake to cheesecake, gelato to flourless tortes, options are plentiful.

Service was a highpoint: While white tuxedo jackets feel passé and forced, they underscore the thoughtfulness clearly put into the training program. The staff, regardless of experience level, knows the menu and is remarkably attentive without becoming an annoyance.

It's hard to imagine that anyone could have predicted this type of grand re-emergence when the original Muer's closed in 1998. If you're looking for a big night out with good service and solid seafood, grab a window seat at Joe Muer Seafood and see what the fuss is about.

Spice crust ahi tuna with braised greens, tomato-caper relish and wasabi créme from Joe Muer Seafood in Detroit.

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