Crunch time

Pizza crust from common strip mall pizza joints isn't generally all that crusty. Engendering sneers from foodies and low-carb fanatics alike, standard American pizzas are doughy, soggy and thick. Of course, that isn't how most of the best pizzerias do it, that isn't how it's done throughout most of Italy, and that isn't how they do it at Rochester Hills' Fresco Wood Oven Pizzeria.

Fresco takes inspiration from Italy's Napoletana-style pizza, serving up a variety of thin, crispy pies cooked briefly in a wood-fired oven. At its best, this approach avoids the usual pizza maladies — pools of grease, wet crusts, too much sauce (or cheese) — and doesn't leave anyone feeling weighed down after only a few slices.

The dining area is fairly small, though a clear view of the oven and the choice to employ wood tones and warm colors throughout make the space feel cozy, not cramped. With a whimsical touch, Fresco immediately signals their use of quality ingredients by deploying empty San Marzano tomato cans as napkin holders.

Despite being concise, the menu offers a wide variety of classic Italian pizzas, modern twists, sandwiches and a few starters.

Among the salads and appetizers, a favorite of our group was their eponymous fennel salad. Simply constructed, a large heap of thinly sliced fennel is tossed with olive oil and walnuts and — much to our initial surprise — served warm. Simple flavors with a crunch can go a long way, and some bright, herbal fennel and mildly bitter walnuts make for a delicious start to a meal.

Or just order the marinated olive plate for a couple of bucks. It's unexpectedly big, and Fresco provides a nice assortment of varieties. Those after something green can order an arugula salad kissed with balsamic, and the hungriest diners may want a plate of meatballs. Their Caprese salad with fresh basil is tasty, though, on one visit, the tiny grape tomatoes weren't quite ripe yet.

According to Fresco's website, each pizza spends about two minutes in a 750-degree wood burning oven, and watching the pizzaiolo make our first couple of pies, that seems about right.

Starting at $7, they certainly are a value: Even with a beer and an appetizer, it wouldn't be hard for two people to get in and out of Fresco for less than $30. Customers with a strong preference for the familiar can build their own pizzas, adding up to three typical toppings. Or they might be interested in the Margherita or salciccia; the latter comes covered in sausage, roasted pepper, onion and tomato.

Also consider the pizza Napolitano, which comes decorated with basil leaves and anchovy fillets. The tiny, salty fish make some people squirm at their mere mention, but added in a judicious fashion, they offer a salty sharpness that really enlivens this particular pizza.

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