Birmingham's Bella Piatti is richly appointed

Sharing a meal can be among our most enjoyable of experiences — conversation, companionship and food. So it should be of little surprise that the trend toward shareable dishes and upbeat social dining rooms across the country has taken hold in metro Detroit. Perhaps no place has so thoroughly and successfully adopted the concept, however, as one of Birmingham's newest hot spots, Bella Piatti.

The dining room is energetic, fueled by open space, exposed metal ceilings, and a layout designed to foster a convivial atmosphere. There are two separate bar areas — a traditional spot for parking with a cocktail, and an antipasti bar where patrons can watch some of the plates be prepared and meticulously plated.

Seated at a table, one is almost compelled to reach a fork out to snag a bite between sentences. Quarters can be close, though not uncomfortably so — and when your table isn't big enough to accommodate all your shared dishes, a server will bring a portable shelf: Plates fit both atop and below.

Consider beginning your meal with their charcuterie. They offer some fine, expected choices, such as soppressata and capicolla ($5), but among our favorites is the wild boar cacciatorini ($5), a slender salami, thickly cut, with a robust flavor that just verges on gaminess. And pork lovers will want to try the prosciutto from La Quercia, the renowned Iowa-based purveyor of cured meats. At $12 for six or eight slices, it's certainly more expensive, but the unusually sweet and tender meat, generous ribbon of fat, and almost earthy flavor are enough to elicit an audible moan.

The meats and several other dishes are accompanied by thick slices of fluffy bread coated in olive oil and grilled; one of those dishes is whipped sheep's milk ricotta with honey ($12), a creamy, delicious play on sweet and savory, perfect for spreading on that toasted bread.

This potted appetizer pretty well exemplifies Bella Piatti's approach — delicious ingredients, largely simple preparations, and small, elegantly composed dishes.

Among the other popular starters is a trio of sweet shrimp tossed with a horseradish and set atop thinly sliced pickled green tomato ($12). But perhaps our favorite small plate is a single grilled sardine ($12) with a heaping spoonful of sweet pepperonata. Because of the preponderance of canned sardines (which are not always even actual sardines), the sometimes-funky fish has developed a negative reputation. But served fresh with a modest char and some bread or roasted veggies, it's an awesome treat featuring rich, bitter, oily, rustic flavors.

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